Lower Dolpo vs Upper Dolpo: Which Dolpo Trek Should You Choose?

Choose Lower Dolpo if you have about two and a half weeks and want Phoksundo Lake, the Tarap valley and two high passes without the cost of the Upper Dolpo permit. Choose Upper Dolpo if you have three weeks or more, have trekked at altitude before, and want to reach Shey Gompa and the Tibetan-style villages of the far north.

Last checked: November 2026.

Both treks start with the same flights from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and on to Juphal, and both pass Phoksundo Lake. After that the routes split. You can see our full itineraries on the Lower Dolpo Trek and Upper Dolpo Trek pages.

Lower Dolpo vs Upper Dolpo at a glance

	Lower Dolpo	Upper Dolpo
Our itinerary length	16 days	22 days
Highest point	Numa La, 5,190 m	Kang La, 5,360 m
Main passes	Numa La (5,190 m), Baga La (5,070 m)	Kang La (5,360 m), Sela La (5,095 m)
Restricted Area Permit	USD 20 per person for the first week, then USD 5 per day	USD 500 per person for the first 10 days, then USD 50 per day
National park fee	Shey Phoksundo NP, NPR 3,000	Shey Phoksundo NP, NPR 3,000
Accommodation	Teahouses and community lodges, with camping possible in remote stretches	Basic lodges in some villages, with camping needed on several nights in the remote northern stretches, such as along Phoksundo Khola
Our starting price	from USD 2,920	from USD 2,200
Best months	March to May, September to November	Spring and September to November; possible in July-August due to rain shadow

The budget line is where most people are surprised. The Upper Dolpo permit costs USD 500 per person for the first 10 days inside the zone and USD 50 for every day after that, so 16 days inside the zone, for example, comes to USD 800 per person before flights, staff and food. Lower Dolpo permits for a 16-day trip are a small fraction of that.

What you see on each trek

Shared ground: Juphal, Dunai and Phoksundo Lake

Both itineraries fly into Juphal (about 2,500 m), walk down to Dunai (2,140 m), then follow the Suli Gad and Phoksundo rivers up to Ringmo village (3,640 m) beside Phoksundo Lake. The lake is one of the deepest in Nepal and its colour changes from turquoise to deep blue through the day. Both treks give you a day around the lake, so you do not miss it whichever route you choose.

Lower Dolpo: Tarap valley and Bon villages

From the lake, Lower Dolpo turns east to Dho Tarap (4,090 m), a farming village spread across a wide valley with chortens, mani walls and a mix of Buddhist and Bon households. Many people in this part of Dolpo follow Bon, a religion older than Tibetan Buddhism in the region. You will notice that Bon followers walk around shrines anticlockwise, the opposite of Buddhist practice. The trek then crosses Numa La and Baga La, two long pass days with wide views toward the Dhaulagiri range, and returns to Ringmo.

Upper Dolpo: Kang La, Shey Gompa and Saldang

Upper Dolpo heads north along the western shore of the lake, through Phoksundo Khola and over Kang La (5,360 m) to Shey Gompa (4,390 m). Shey is the monastery near Crystal Mountain that many readers know from Peter Matthiessen’s book The Snow Leopard. From there you cross Sela La to Namduna Gaun and Saldang, one of the largest villages in Upper Dolpo, with a side trip to Yangze Gompa. The return comes through Tokyu, Dho Tarap and Nawarpani to Dunai. Life here is closer to Tibet than to the Nepali midhills: yak caravans, barley fields and houses with flat roofs stacked with firewood.

Permit differences and why Upper Dolpo costs more

Dolpo has two separate restricted areas. Lower Dolpo covers the Tarap and Phoksundo region. Upper Dolpo covers the area north of Phoksundo, including Shey and Saldang. The government sets a much higher Upper Dolpo fee to limit numbers and protect a fragile region close to the Tibetan border, the same approach used for Upper Mustang.

On top of the restricted area permit, both treks need the Shey Phoksundo National Park entry permit (NPR 3,000). You do not need a TIMS card when you hold a restricted area permit. You must walk with a licensed guide, and the permit is arranged through a registered trekking agency. Until March 2026 restricted area permits were only issued to groups of at least two trekkers; the Department of Immigration now issues them to solo trekkers too, as long as they book through an agency and walk with a licensed guide. Independent trekking without a guide is not allowed on either route.

Our permits article, Lower Dolpo Permits 2026: Restricted Area Permit Explained, covers how the fees are calculated and what documents you need.

Fitness and experience needed

Lower Dolpo

Expect six to eight hours of walking on most days, with the two pass crossings running seven to eight hours each. You will sleep above 4,000 m for several nights and cross 5,190 m. Our itinerary includes an acclimatisation day at Dho Tarap. A previous multi-day trek, such as Annapurna Base Camp or Everest Base Camp, is good preparation but not strictly required if you are fit and train for steep climbs.

Upper Dolpo

Upper Dolpo adds six days, a higher pass and longer stretches far from road heads, airstrips or phone signal. Two acclimatisation days are built in (Ringmo and Shey Gompa). We recommend previous trekking experience above 4,500 m. If something goes wrong in Upper Dolpo, help is often days away on foot, so travel insurance that covers helicopter evacuation above 5,000 m is essential on both treks and critical on this one.

Which Dolpo trek is right for you?

Traveller type	Our suggestion
First visit to Dolpo, about 2.5 weeks of leave	Lower Dolpo
Main goal is Phoksundo Lake, limited time	Phoksundo Lake only (see our Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek guide)
Experienced high-altitude trekker, 3+ weeks	Upper Dolpo
Interested in Bon culture and village life	Lower Dolpo (Tarap and Ringmo)
Interested in remote monasteries and Tibetan-style life	Upper Dolpo (Shey, Saldang, Yangze)
Tight budget for permits	Lower Dolpo
Trekking in July or August	Upper Dolpo is possible in the rain shadow, but discuss flight risk with us first

If you are unsure, Lower Dolpo is the safer first choice. It gives you the lake, a Bon village, two serious passes and a real sense of Dolpo, at a lower permit cost and with fewer days away from help. Upper Dolpo rewards people who already know how they handle altitude and long remote stretches.

FAQ

Can I combine Lower and Upper Dolpo in one trip?

Yes. Some routes go from Phoksundo over Kang La to Shey, then return south through Tarap. You would need the Upper Dolpo permit for the northern section, and the trip runs longer than either of our standard itineraries. Contact us for a custom plan.

Is Upper Dolpo harder than Lower Dolpo?

Yes. It is longer, reaches a higher pass (5,360 m against 5,190 m), and spends more nights at high altitude with fewer facilities.

Do both treks visit Phoksundo Lake?

Yes. Both reach Ringmo village on the lake shore on Day 6 of our itineraries and spend time there.

Can I trek either route alone?

Not without a guide. Both are restricted areas, so the permit must be arranged through a registered agency and you must walk with a licensed guide. Since March 2026 the Department of Immigration issues restricted area permits to solo trekkers, so you no longer need a second trekker in your group.

Plan this trek with us on the Lower Dolpo Trek or Upper Dolpo Trek page, where you can check dates and ask questions.